Cover the ortolans with slices of bacon, and cook them in a bain-marie moistened with stock and lemon juice. Take as many truffles as there are ortolans, scoop out the centres and boil them in champagne (Saumur will do). When done, pour a little purée of game into each truffle, add the ortolans, warm for a few seconds in the oven, and serve.
Dressed Game and Poultry à la Mode, by
Harriet A. de Salis (Year1888)